V50 Cluitch sticking

[jianelli]

My V50 with 7k has been sitting so long (before I got it) the clutch won't disengage with the hand lever. My mechanic said I could maybe free it by riding it, but I wonder how hard it would be to replace the clutch myself. I have not done this job but am fairly handy. Anyone care to advise on degree of difficulty or odds that I would screw it up?
Thanks,
John

[john zibell]

Some special tools make the job easier, but with only 7K on the bike, I'd try to free the clutch first. You have nothing to loose. I wouldn't do it by riding the bike. Place the bike on the center stand and support it so the back wheel cannot make contact when you sit on the bike. Sit on the bike, place it in gear then start the bike. Squeeze in the clutch lever and apply the rear brake. You may want to try this a couple times to get it to free up. If she doesn't, you haven't lost anything and will need to go in and free the clutch manually, or replace it. You can get parts and service manuals for the V50 here http://guzzitek.org/gb/cadres_gb.htm Good luck,

[jianelli]

Thanks,
I have actually tried what you suggest using the center stand, and the engine mostly dies from the braking (4 of 5 times). So I was thinking I should get it sorted out properly and take it apart. What specialty tools would I need? It is a 1978 V 50...
John

[Chuck in Indiana]

Thanks,
I have actually tried what you suggest using the center stand, and the engine mostly dies from the braking (4 of 5 times). So I was thinking I should get it sorted out properly and take it apart. What specialty tools would I need? It is a 1978 V 50...
John

Pretty much nothing. The small block is dead simple to do a clutch job on..

[jianelli]

Thanks. I think I will give a go...
John

[john zibell]

The special tool I would want to have for this job is 19 90 65 00. It is for assembly and centering of the clutch assembly. It makes the job so much easier.

[jianelli]

So I have the manual and it shows the engine out of the bike.
I need something more elaborate than: "Step one: Remove Engine" if you know what I mean. Does anyone know of a link that would give me a more detailed step by step? Pictures are always nice too...
Thanks for any help with this..
John

[john zibell]

The V50 is just a mini Tonti. You should be able to just crab the frame if you have a lift table with wheel vice or a bike chock. Then it is support the rear of the frame, remove the rear wheel, swing arm, split the frame and lower the back of the lower frame to remove the transmission. Once the transmission is out, you are staring at the clutch/flywheel assembly.

[ghezzi]

It may be worth while identifying which parts are stuck together, ie.
Is it the clutch actuating mechanism, from the cable to the all the machanisms behind and passing thru the gearbox.

If it transpires that you need to disassemble and replace the clutch, then there would be nothing to lose by spraying heaps of WD40 in there to free things up.

John, is there an access point for this? (just thinking out loud)
If it works I would let the bike idle in neutral for a long time to dry out the WD40 by getting it hot.
Nothing to lose, everything to gain (even if you have to drill an access hole in the bell housing)

[rossw]

My V50 with 7k has been sitting so long (before I got it) the clutch won't disengage with the hand lever. My mechanic said I could maybe free it by riding it, but I wonder how hard it would be to replace the clutch myself. I have not done this job but am fairly handy. Anyone care to advise on degree of difficulty or odds that I would screw it up?
Thanks,
John

I have just completed a clutch replacement on my 750 Breva, which is similar. There are a couple of on line guides to gearbox removal that will help if you need to go that far. It should at least give you some idea of what you are in for. Some guidance here: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/pdf/gearbox-repair-breva-750-nick-webb.pdf.

It is a big job. You need some way to support the engine and gearbox because you need to remove the lower rails and hence the centre stand to separate the gearbox. I used a stack of timber and wedges to hold it all steady and a "Workmate" portable bench to hold the top part of the frame (because I have one).

You will need a means of holding the flywheel while you undo the bolts that hold the clutch together. This is just a piece of steel with teeth cut on one side to match teh flywheel and holes to allow it to be bolted to the clutch housing.

You will probably need to obtain a tool to remove the nut from the front of the gearbox. This is to replace the little seal that goes around the clutch pushrod. Chances are, if it's all sticking there is some corrosion in there that will tear out the seal and cause oil to leak onto the clutch.

The tools you need for this part can be made if you have access to a welder. It consists of an old clutch centre welded into a socket wrench or similar to hold the splined shaft, and a hex spanner to hold the nut. I'm sure someone near you has an old small block clutch plate that would suit.

If all this seems too hard, you might be able to withdraw the pushrod from the back of the gearbox and clean it up but you'll probably ruin the seal in the process and have to take it all apart anyway...