I'm installing a u-joint into a new bearing and its a tight fit, as it should be. In the past, I've tried freezing the UJ and warming the swing arm with out success. I ended up going back to the original MG clearances by turning the UJ bearing face then using sleeve retainer. That's the easiest and fasted install method for me so far.
Is any body using the factory UJ install tool? I'm wondering if it really helps, I'm still concerned that factory tool will required using a dead blow hammer and possibly damaging the bearings in the process.
thanks.
I searched U-joint but did not find any threads. I remember reading one though...
MGNOC L-489 since '81 '73 Eldorado owned since '81(not running, its waiting for my retirement) '77 T-3 os '84 (950 jugs, RITA, & PHFs) w/ '74 Velorex side car '83 1000 SP os '89 (restoration almost done) '00 Quota 1100 ES os '09 (loaner from friend) '06 Breva 1100 os '10 (my new honey) '81 CX 100 (sold)
Gotta bum memory, turns out I saw the UJ installer tool on Charley Cole's web site http://www.zydecoracing.com/albums/album_image/5079056/4776560.htm and assumed it was a factory tool. Its a custom made tool that he bought along with other shop tools and doesn't know who made it. If I can find the right size steel tube I may try to make one.
MGNOC L-489 since '81 '73 Eldorado owned since '81(not running, its waiting for my retirement) '77 T-3 os '84 (950 jugs, RITA, & PHFs) w/ '74 Velorex side car '83 1000 SP os '89 (restoration almost done) '00 Quota 1100 ES os '09 (loaner from friend) '06 Breva 1100 os '10 (my new honey) '81 CX 100 (sold)
I've never needed to use one of the tools. I've always managed to get it there in the end.
If difficult I have the rear drive attached and the axle up through the swing arm bearing. This helps guide the cardan joint down centrally into the bearing.
If you have already done this then not much more that I can add.
Have you used this technique with press fit UJ and bearing?
thanks, Rafael
MGNOC L-489 since '81 '73 Eldorado owned since '81(not running, its waiting for my retirement) '77 T-3 os '84 (950 jugs, RITA, & PHFs) w/ '74 Velorex side car '83 1000 SP os '89 (restoration almost done) '00 Quota 1100 ES os '09 (loaner from friend) '06 Breva 1100 os '10 (my new honey) '81 CX 100 (sold)
One end (only one) of the cardan joint is an interference fit with the swing arm bearing so it is supposed to be tight. If it isn't I usually cheat and hold it tight with some form of retaining fluid. The other end is too big but as you mentioned machining and an easy sleeve I figured you were aware but I'll mention it just to make sure. That end will never fit unless you machine it down.
Getting the cardan joint to slide into the bearing can be tricky but if the rear drive is attached to the swing arm and the shaft in place the cardan joint spline has something to slide down and align to. You then just need to jiggle it until it enters the bearing.
If the fit is loose then I usually just apply some fluid and slide the 2 together. If it is tight I do the above. I have always eventually had success but it can take a bit of jiggling.
I know about the fit end of the cardan, I mentioned turning the end because MG used to make these a slip fit, which is a problem they eventually corrected. My understanding of the fit is, that if you can get it in by hand, it will slip under load and requires the retainer fluid. This design is definitively a weak point. I don't see a like bearing in the CARC design, good riddance.
I'm going to try your suggestion to see if I can get it in with a lube, then re-do with the retainer fluid.
thanks
Last edited by Rafael on Wed Jan 11, 2012 11:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
MGNOC L-489 since '81 '73 Eldorado owned since '81(not running, its waiting for my retirement) '77 T-3 os '84 (950 jugs, RITA, & PHFs) w/ '74 Velorex side car '83 1000 SP os '89 (restoration almost done) '00 Quota 1100 ES os '09 (loaner from friend) '06 Breva 1100 os '10 (my new honey) '81 CX 100 (sold)
Rafael wrote:Gotta bum memory, turns out I saw the UJ installer tool on Charley Cole's web site http://www.zydecoracing.com/albums/album_image/5079056/4776560.htm and assumed it was a factory tool. Its a custom made tool that he bought along with other shop tools and doesn't know who made it. If I can find the right size steel tube I may try to make one.
I would like to make one of these tools. I assume that the u-joint simply slides loosely into the tool?
KnowFear wrote: I assume that the u-joint simply slides loosely into the tool?
Correct, but it cant be too loose so as to cause articulation of the cardan. There has to be a flat area beneath the handle to come in contact with the trans end of the cardan. And the sleeve portion can't be too long.
Let us know how it goes, there may be some interest for purchase. Subsequent fabrications usually go easier and faster.
MGNOC L-489 since '81 '73 Eldorado owned since '81(not running, its waiting for my retirement) '77 T-3 os '84 (950 jugs, RITA, & PHFs) w/ '74 Velorex side car '83 1000 SP os '89 (restoration almost done) '00 Quota 1100 ES os '09 (loaner from friend) '06 Breva 1100 os '10 (my new honey) '81 CX 100 (sold)
2) place u-joint in the swingarm ready to press into the carrier bearing
3) install an alignment tool made from a piece of PVC pipe, machined to be a close, but not tight fit to the OD of the UJ and the ID of the swingarm. This just holds the UJ straight while pressed into the carrier bearing.
4) place the swingarm in a press and press the UJ into the carrier bearing until fully seated.
5) remove PVC tool
6) hava-cuppa-coffee
I've tried a couple different locktite products and found that 620 seemed to last about 3-4000 miles with a slightly hopped-up 850T. In the spirit of "there is nothing so permanent as a temporary repair", I don't do it anymore. If you're charging shop rate, the process of installing a sleeve on the appropriate end of the UJ (after it's dismantled to get it in the lathe) is almost as much as the cost of a new UJ.