Changing spring on 1200 Sport shock

[Bisbonian]

I've got a spring on order and have the shock out and laying on my workbench.

I've replaced springs on a couple of different shocks in the past and they were pretty straightforward, this shock appears to have a lower collar with a slot in it that the shock shaft would go through.

So how do you compress the spring to get that collar off?

[kiwi dave]

I replaced one on my Norge, which has the same rear shock as the 1200 Sport. From memory (it was a few years ago), the spring came off normally, used a spring compressor to allow the collets to be removed.

The shock has to be removed from the mechanical system where it attaches to the swing arm; I assume you have done this already. There is no collar at the bottom, although there is one at the top which is part of the preload adjuster. This should be retained for use with the new spring.

If I misunderstood your question, please point to the bits you mean from the diagram.

[Bisbonian]

I replaced one on my Norge, which has the same rear shock as the 1200 Sport. From memory (it was a few years ago), the spring came off normally, used a spring compressor to allow the collets to be removed.

The shock has to be removed from the mechanical system where it attaches to the swing arm; I assume you have done this already. There is no collar at the bottom, although there is one at the top which is part of the preload adjuster. This should be retained for use with the new spring.

If I misunderstood your question, please point to the bits you mean from the diagram.

I think we're on the same page Dave. I have the shock laying on the workbench with none of the linkages attached.

In the past I've been able to make a tool to compress the spring (or I've just set the shock to max preload, used lots of zip ties on the spring and then released the preload) but this shock looks a bit different than what I'm used to.

[kiwi dave]

With these shocks it's probably not so obvious, but when trying to compress the spring to release the collets, you need to wind the preload right off, not to maximum. Have you done this?

I've never heard of using cable ties, I wouldn't have thought that they would have the strength to compress the spring, but I guess with enough of them to share the load it would work. Quite an innovative idea, but I'd keep my fingers clear at all times.

Edit: Thinking about this some more, perhaps the single shock spring is just too strong for the cable ties to pull down. You could try temporarily compressing the shock in a sash clamp, using more of those ties to ensure the shock doesn't slip out, to help those ties get the spring compressed.

As before, watch those pinkies. Personally I'd just spring (no pun intended ) for a proper spring compressor set, available at most auto supply stores.

[Bisbonian]

I think I have a plan for this.

If it works I'll share what I did.

If it doesn't work I'll just keep it to myself.

[GuzziMoto]

A spring compressor is $25. A trip to the hospital because the zip ties holding the spring compressed let go seems like it would be more.
I'm not saying it won't work, but it seems like a big chance to take to save $25.

[Bisbonian]

Sorry, I just can't see myself spending $25 for a tool I'm likely to only use once when there are other options available to me.

When I had my DL1000 V-Strom I changed out the spring and built a beautiful fixture to get the job done.



The shock is a bit different on the Strom than that on the Guzzi so as it sits this fixture won't work.



The problem is right at this end; on the Strom I needed to press down on the spring mount and uncover a snap ring that held the works together. On the Guzzi shock you can't press down on the mount as it has to stay free so that it can slide out of position when the spring is compressed.



Measuring carefully I made this addition to my fixture. The spring juts out from the edges of the mount a tiny bit. I had a backup plan in place but I positioned these two pieces of scrap 2x4 so that they would allow me to avoid pressing on the mount but still press on the spring, or so I hoped.



Here you can see how the shock fits in the fixture. There's not much to press on but hopefully it will be enough.



I use my floor jack for the pressing. When I had my Strom it took a few different versions before I was able to make this work without chunks of 2x4 flying around the garage. I keep meaning to break this thing up and burn it for scrap but never have, even when I trip over it in the garage and end up cursing.



The shock goes in pretty simply.



A few pumps of the jack and the spring is compressing but allowing the mounting plate to be free. I'm not going to tell you that it all went fine on the first try, I had to adjust my position a couple of times.



You've got to compress the spring enough so that the spring mounting plate clears the shock end, there's also a ridge on the inside of the mounting plate that centers the shock. Yes the shock appears to be pretty unstable right now. That's because it is unstable, this was my first try.



Once I figured what the shock needed to stabilize it I was able to press the spring far enough and remove the mounting plate. I had to hunt around for a screwdriver to poke the mounting plate out as I didn't want my fingers in there.



And there you have it. I got a shipping message today on the new spring so it should be here by the end of the week. Installation should be the reverse of removal and I have an idea to make the process a little easier.

Not bad for a bunch of scrap wood and about 20 minutes.