Going to throw my bike off a cliff again SOLUTION (kind of)

[Spaceclam]

It's the preload nut in my carc

The apes at the factory locked the tab washer to the preload nut, but never bothered to tighten the nut first. I can wiggle it around slightly, since the tab and the nut aren't a perfect fit.

So, my carc is probably toast. That is clearly a factory defect, but we will see about warranty. I couldn't get parts warrantied while the bike was still new, let alone now. I am currently using a borrowed carc :-/

[Ad B]

Hi,
I hope you don't throw your bike of that cliff...
And this solution is the last for you and your Griso, you had to search for.
I don't pray much, although I'm catholic...
But I will do some prayers for you, hoping it helps you to ride your bike without all that troubles.

Good luck.
Ad B

[Mi_ka]

A theory: Maybe the preload adjustment asks for tightening first and then some backing up and retightening to specs.
They could have forgotten the first part and just tightened it to specs so it just loosened up in time.
Or there could be some other wear reason for the nut loosening up.

[Spaceclam]

The nut can't loosen over time. That is the whole purpose of the tab washer. IT wasn't tight from the factory, and my pinion gear was wiggling around.

[pete roper]

Andrew, unlike the earlier bevelboxes the pinion nut is not tightened beyyond a very light preload figure. Thre is no spacer between the two carrier bearings to allow the nut to simply be cranked down., if you try this the bearings simply bind. If the locking tabs, (There is an internal one on the washer too.) are loose or have sheared there has to be a reason. Most likely bearing wear.

The CARC is generally speaking a very robust unit.

Pete

[Spaceclam]

it hasn't sheared off. they locked the nut in place, while not tightened down. 0_o By not tightened down, i mean i can rotate it easily, back and forth, since the tabs are smaller than the notches in the nut.

It could still be the main bearing, but this makes more sense because the noise goes away when i let off the throttle, and gets worse when i pound on it. I would assume the pinion gets tweaked under power because its flopping around and loose, and thats why it whines.

[pete roper]

Only way you'll know fer sure is to take it to bits. RRemember as well that as it heats up the bearings will expand. Whether this would be enough to firm everything up again I don't know.

If it were mine this is what I'd do.

Firstly, disassemble it and check the big bearing. If the oil is horribly discoloured I'll wager a box full of beehives the bearing is toast.

If you find there is excessive play in the pinion, and really it shouldn't have any, you'll have to remove the front boot, remove the seal holder, bend down the tang on the lockwasher and remove the peg nut.

Examine the thrads of the nut for wear due to chattering and if you have any doubts about its integrity dump it. Buy a new one along with a new lock washer. These are the same components as used to hold the crank/camchain sprockets on to the crank on Bosch alternatored Tontis, so basically you need a crank peg nut and lock washer off a T3! You'll certainly need the washer!

Install the new washer and nut and simply tighten the peg nut GENTLY until all the freeplay is taken out of the pinion bearings but do NOT just keep cranking away until it stiffens up!!! Obviously the oil has to be able to get inro the bearing races between the rollers and the race to lubricate and cool. You'll probably then have to release it and re tension it a couple of times to allow the inner race to *relax* itself onto the right place on the pinion shaft. When you're happy with how it feels, (And feel will be the only instruction you have!) dab a small amount of Loctite 243 on the threads before a final re-set annd bend up the locking tab to secure the nut.

Replace the seal holder, (With a NEW seal!!), then re-install the front boot, (Once again, front wheel drive car CV boot clips are the go for this!).

I'm still pretty sure the biggest issue will be the 'Big' bearing on the crownwheel although I'm obviously half a world away and am only going by what I've seen in the past and your descriptions. I'd replace the bearing on spec anyway while its apart. Any serious damage to the pinion teeth will be apparent when you can see the crownwheel as it in turn will of been damaged by a misalligned pinion. If thats he case then all bets are off but the CARC gears are both massively strong and remarkably tollerant of abuse so don't despair just yet..

Pete