Monoshock removal

[GT-Rx]

How-to for rear shock removal on a Breva 1100, Norge or Sport 1200. Secure/support bike for removal;

Fully rotate pre-load knob clockwise and remove. The spring-loaded detent ball (shown, red arrow) for the pre-load adjuster is near 12 o'clock, have your hand close when removing the knob.

A wedge shaped board or helper is need to raise the wheel & swing-arm for removal of bolt below, and shock.

Remove linkage bolt (yellow arrow) which should come out by hand if wheel is positioned properly above, and swing linkage arm down (red arrow), and remove final lower shock bolt (green arrow) at this time. Inspect & grease linkage on re-assembly.

Remove top shock bolt, using a long "wobble" extension or equal. Bolt removal, once free of the threaded frame lug, will require long needle-nose pliers/magnetic picker/or wire hook.The shock will then drop onto the swing-arm.

Turn shock orientation to match the 'V' angle of the swing-arm. Raise the wheel/swing-arm until the angle allows the shock to literally fall out to below (be ready).

[Oz1200Guzzi]

Thanks Todd,

I tried it once to no avail and ended up giving up. But I will give it another go soon!

[GrahamNZ]

Thanks Todd. That's great to have posted.

Have you ever had to drill off the preload knob's retaining screw? Hopefully mine was a rare example.

[GT-Rx]

Thanks Todd. That's great to have posted. Have you ever had to drill off the preload knob's retaining screw? Hopefully mine was a rare example.

My pleasure, and yes, but only one of ~6, so far. I have two more to do this week/end.

[guzzibob]

Thanks Todd, very nice. Printed out to add to my collection. Though hopefully only time I ever do it will be by you in your garage on the way to upgrading the shock.

[GT-Rx]

Thanks Todd, very nice. Printed out to add to my collection. Though hopefully only time I ever do it will be by you in your garage on the way to upgrading the shock.

My pleasure Bob, and look forward to that day in helping you fit a new rear shock. FYI... I revised picture 3 above and added some text, as I forgot to note the lower shock bolt removal.

[londonrob]

I took my shock off last week to change the spring for Todd's uprated Hyperpro one, if you get the angle of the swingarm right it just falls out, dead easy.

Todd do you have any suggestions for settings on spring pre load, I'm keeping the damping at 11 clicks and have already fitted Hyperpro fork springs.
I'm 15 stone and ride mostly solo.

I'm amazed at how clean your bike is in the pics, mine is covered in crap after an english winter, with plenty of surface rust on the top of the shock.
Those Californian winters must be hell....

[GrahamNZ]

Todd

Removal went like a bought one. About a 10 minute procedure. Only thing I'd add is that to withdraw the top mounting bolt from the suspension unit's eye it helps to use a magnetic picker or a wire hook once the bolt is free of the thread in the frame lug.

While the suspender was out I took the opportunity to remove the bottom linkages and grease the needle rollers and seals again. Last done two years ago and really not needed this time as everything was perfect.

More later once the unit has been upgraded. Apparently some units have been assembled with internal parts the wrong way around, leading to shocking compression damping response.

[nel]

My bike has cost over£1000 in oil leaks gearbox seal carc input seal. Whilst it was in the dealer said it needed new needle bearings in the triangular linkage marked yellow/green in above pics were pitted and corroded . He said he didn't know how it passed its mot. I reminded him he did the mot 6 weeks previous when he did the gearbox seal. Anyway he said they change the whole triangular block cos its to labour intensive to change the bearings.

[GrahamNZ]

Well nel that sounds like a real tale of woes. Sorry to hear it. Forum member BeBe had issues with his bike's rear suspension linkage so it may be worth sending him a PM about it. As I recall there was no troublesome play nor any lube issue, it was just that the inspector wasn't checking things correctly.

To feel for up/down play - the play that matters - the testing method is with the bike on the centrestand is to reach across the seat and lift the rear wheel up and let it down a few times so that any linkage play will be felt as freeplay. The forked linkage arm which attaches at the front to the frame lug is made to be able to move laterally a bit for alignment purposes and sidesways movement there shouldn't be mistaken for troublesome play.

Pitting of the needle rollers is a bad thing of course and is a sign on such young bikes of poor lubrication on assembly, missing seals at each end of the bearings, or a lot of water (and salt in some countries) being flung over the linkage. I've fitted a protective flexible flap to reduce the amount of muck reaching the linkage and shock, and here salting of roads isn't widespread.

If pitting ot the needle rollers and inner spacers was present I'd just remove the seals and press out the bearings and then replace the parts rather than buy a whole linkage. The bearings and seals don't look special to me. Just the same, removing the linkage and re-greasing the bearings and seals every year or two is no big deal - probably an hour's work. My 97 Triumph Trophy was fitted with grease nipples which were charged at each 10,000km service. Now there was a good idea!