My 2009 G8VSE odometer is approaching 10,000km (6250miles) and it is about time for the first fork oil change. This will be my first inverted fork oil change though I am experience in the right-side-up fork oil change.
I have got all the necessary tools ready and went through the service manual as well as topics related to the inverted fork oil change in the internet.
All seems well except the part to preset the rebound damping adjuster during reassembly. Here is an interesting piece of information I found in Traxxion website.
All Cartridge Forks: You must preset the rebound adjuster before you reinstall the fork cap. This will prevent you from having different adjustment ranges on each fork. Back the rebound screw all of the way out. If it does not stop on a "click" turn it back in until it is in one. Turn the screw in three full turns. Pull the damping rod up out of the fork (conventional forks) and install compressor tool kit (inverted forks). Back the jam nut as far down the damping rod as it will go. This will allow you to fully thread the fork cap onto the damping rod. Thread the cap on until it stops turning. Then thread the jam nut up to meet the fork cap and tighten securely. At this point, check to see that the rebound adjuster is "seated". Do this by trying to turn the rebound screw in further. DO NOT FORCE THE REBOUND ADJUSTER INTO A CLICK!!! IT IS A SMALL WEAK NEEDLE AND SEAT ASSEMBLY, AND YOU WILL DAMAGE IT!!! LIGHT FINGERTIP PRESSURE ON THE SCREWDRIVER IS ALL THAT IS REQUIRED. It should not move clockwise when tested from this point. It should back out if turned counterclockwise. If it will not fall into the last click easily, then loosen the cap and try again. If you back it up one click and turn it back in, it should stop in the last click. NOTE: Not all forks have adjusters that click. If yours do not, then a "click" is considered 1/4 of a turn. Most revalved racing forks should work properly at about 4-6 clicks from full hard, but consult your owner's manual for your specific application if you have stock fork valving. WARNING!!!:Failure to back the rebound screw out from "full in" or "full hard" position can cause the fork to respond slowly and seem to "lock up". The motorcycle will be dangerous to ride and a crash can occur!!!
My G8VSE fork rebound damping adjuster will make 2 ¼ turns from fully back out to fully seated, does it means I need to turn in the adjuster 2 ¼ turn from the fully back out position before I screw in the fork cap to the damping rod until it lightly seated then tighten it with the lock nut on the rod?
No idea, I've yet to do mine and I'm up to 40,000km! I'll probably take 'em out and send 'em to one of the suspension specialists and pick their brains as to ways to improve them, (Although I think the Showa is a super fork I think its valving could be improved as mine is backed out to almost 'Fully Soft' and I think the oil is pretty light.) I'm always happy to pay someone with a lot more experience than me for advice when it comes to suspension as it is, IMHO, one of the most important aspects of the machine. I'll spend money on handling and braking L-O-N-G before I start paying for stuff to improve power. There are some very good and experienced people out there and a few hundred dollars worth of time is a very cheap investment.
Phang, I'd think a fork oil change would be a bit pre-mature according to the manual, but to each his own. A good practice is to "zero out" (minimum setting) all of the adjusters, and the manual will tell you the rest. Take some pictures and post them here for a hands-on how-to for everyone.
Todd at GuzziTech.com SoCal GuzziTech Power Since 2001!
20,000km is about right in my book but the G8V manual suggested an initial change at 10,000km and every 20,000km thereafter. As for the fork seals, I wouldn’t touch them unless they are leaking.
I will post photos along the way, please feel free to comment folks
Phang wrote:20,000km is about right in my book but the G8V manual suggested an initial change at 10,000km and every 20,000km thereafter. As for the fork seals, I wouldn’t touch them unless they are leaking.
I will post photos along the way, please feel free to comment folks
Phang--So how did the forks oil change go? Any pointers? Never did the 10km service and I'm over the 20km mark now and am inclined to go the Roper route (wait at least until 40km ) .
I'm no expert, but I believe all of MG's service intervals are grossly conservative and influenced by their honorable dedication to dealers to generate service tickets. I won't be changing my CARC/gearbox lube for a waaaay long time (I swapped it out with the synthetic Redline 'Pepto Bismol' looking stuff at 1000km).
Guzzi stated AGIP FORK 7.5W in the Griso manual, viscosity is 31.0 cST@40ºC according to the chart from peterverdone.
I bought a more readily available Swedish cod liver oil in 23 and 40 cST@40ºC, planning to blend them near to the viscosity of Italian olive oil that Guzzi filled in my Griso’s forks.
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